Southern Utah

Southern Utah is like one giant National Park. One can spend months in this area. It has excellent hiking, climbing, mountain biking and kayaking opportunities. There is so much to see and do that photos really do not do it justice. An off road vehicle provides access to more remote areas which are also less crowded. The remote areas are very remote and one needs to be self sufficient. Desert roads spread out for tens of miles and hiking for help could be very difficult. It is really impossible to see it all on one trip. The summers are too hot so the best time to visit is in the fall or spring. The following parts of Southern Utah have their own page on this website:

Bryce National Park

Zion National Park

Paria Canyon

One of the many abandoned homesteads in Southern Utah

On the Colorado River near Moab

Colorado River

Colorado River

The Priest and the Nuns near Castle Valley

Fisher Towers

Spectacular Fisher Towers. The highest tower is 1000ft high!

Corona Arch is at the end of an easy 3 mile hike.

Corona Arch

Corona Arch

Bowtie Pothole Arch on the way to Corona Arch

Spectacular view of the Canyonlands National Park from the Dead Horse Point Overlook

Dead Horse Point Overlook

Dead Horse Point Overlook

Dead Horse Point Overlook

Dead Horse Point Overlook

Dead Horse Point Overlook

Dead Horse Point Overlook at sunset

Mesa Arch at sunrise

Mesa Arch at sunrise

Mesa Arch at sunrise

Mesa Arch at sunrise

Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky

Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky

Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky

Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky

Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky

Canyonlands National Park - Island in the Sky

Bear Ears

It is a desert after all and you can encounter many kinds of rattlesnakes

Canyonlands National Park - Needles Area

Canyonlands National Park - Needles Area

Canyonlands National Park - Needles Area

Indian Creek

Indian Creek

Indian Creek

Canyonlands, The Needles Area

Canyonlands, The Needles Area

Canyonlands National Park, Needles Overlook

Canyonlands National Park, The Needles

Easy hiking around the Needles

Indian Creek

Canyonlands National Park, Needles Overlook

Arches National Park

Arches National Park, The Delicate Arch

Arches National Park, The Delicate Arch

Arches National Park, The Delicate Arch

Arches National Park, Double Arch

Arches National Park, Double Arch

Arches National Park, Double Arch

Arches National Park

Arches National Park

Arches National Park

Arches National Park

Sand Dune Arch

Arches National Park, Turret Arch

Arches National Park, Turret Arch

Arches National Park, The Windows

Natural Bridges National Monument, trail to the Sipapu Bridge

Sipapu Bridge

Sipapu Bridge

Sipapu Bridge

Sipapu Bridge

Owachomo Bridge

Owachomo Bridge

spectacular desert scenery

Near Glen Reservoir. Unfortunately the Reservoir is dry.

Grand Staircase Escalante

Grand Staircase Escalante

Grand Staircase Escalante

Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Grand Staircase Escalante

Grand Staircase Escalante

Big Rock Candy Mountain

Big Rock Candy Mountain

Great Himalaya Trail - Summary of Completed Sections

This is an ongoing project for me and it gives me a good reason to return to one of my favourite regions in the world. I have been trekking in the Himalaya since 2001. So far, I have completed the following sections and crossed the following high passes of the Karakoram, the Zanskar and the Himalaya Ranges (The Great Himalaya Trail, situated in Nepal, is only a subset of this larger and longer journey). Click on each link for the trip report and photos:

Nepal Himalaya Treks (2,100km) and main passes:

1.     Kangchendzonga Himal 250km, Selele Pass 4,290m

2.     Makalu Himal 80km, Shiphton Pass 4,000m, Sherpani Col 6,180m and West Col 6,135m

3.     Khumbu Himal – East 60 km, Amphu Labtsa Pass 5,845m

4. Khumbu Himal Central - ChoLa Pass 5,400m and Lobuche Peak 6,000m

5. Khumbu Himal West - Sunder Peak 5,000m and Sumna Pass 5,480m

6.     Kumbu Himal  - West 100km, Gokyo Ri 5,400m and RenjoLa 5,360m

7.     Rowaling Himal 100km, Teshi Labtsa Pass 5,800m, YalungLa 5,300m

8.     Langtang Himal 200km via Ganjala Pass 5,130m and Tilman Pass 5,300m

9. Ganesh Himal/Langtang and Yala Peak 170km, LaurebinaLa 4,610m

10.   Manaslu Himal 140km, Larkya Pass 5,125m

11. Annapurna Himal North - Thorongla Pass 5,436 m

12.   Annapurna Himal – North 140km, Mesocanto Pass 5,230m

13.   Annapurna Himal - South 65km

14. Mustang/Damodar Himal Terilla Pass/Naar Kangla Pass 380km via TeriLa 5,600m, KangLa 5,325m, 380km

15.  Dhaulagiri Himal 110km, French Pass 5,150m and Dhampus Pass 5,150m

16.  Far West Nepal Simikot to Mt. Kailash and Tibet 100km, NaraLa Pass 4,507m

Karakoram treks and passes in Pakistan and China (775km):

1.    K2 BC South from Pakistan Baltoro Glacier 115km, Ghondogoro La 5,640m

2.    Biafo and Hispar Glaciers 132km, Hispar Pass 5,151m

3.    K2 BC North from China Shakskam Valley and K2 Glacier 278km, Aghil Pass 4,805m

4. Pahamagh, Nobande Sobande Choktoi Glaciers 155km

5. Haramosh La 5,200m 85km

1. India treks and passes (291km):

1.    Grand Zanskar Traverse (Darcha to Lamayuru) 291km, Shingo La 5,090m, Murgum La 4,000m, Singee La 5,000, Sirsi La 4,900m

Pakistan Choktoi, Nobande Sobande and Panamagh Glaciers

This trip was 10 years overdue. I was planning to visit this area of the Karakorum in 2013 but the Nanga Parbat shooting ended my trip before it even started. The main interest of this area is of course, the Choktoi Glacier and the fabulous Latok Peaks. The weather in this corner of the Karakorum is notoriously fickle. This entire conglomerate of glaciers is massive in scale. There are no paths and most of the travel is on glaciers. Thankfully the camps are all in the side valleys. Although there is not a lot of elevation gain per se, i was climbing up and down all day long every day. The biggest challenge is walking on glaciers and trying not to slip on loose rocks that cover the surface. It is not an easy terrain but the views and complete lack of other people make up for it. It is absolutely wild and “undiscovered” corner of the Karakorum Range.

My secondary objective was to gain acclimatization for the Haramosh La crossing at 5,200m. The elevation gain on Haramosh La is very rapid and therefore, good acclimatization is mandatory. I spent 2 weeks over 4000m on this trek so it gave me a good base acclimatization for crossing the Haramosh La.

Thanks to Adventure Karakoram Pakistan and Ghulam from Mountain Travels Pakistan for their assistance, hospitality and great service!

An overview of the mountains of northern Pakistan. These are not Himalayas but Karakoram, a separate mountain range.

The closeup of the Panamagh, Nobande Sobande and Choktoi glacier system.

We were on the other side of this peak and Skamri Glacier on the China K2 trek in 2016.

An overview of the Chinese side of the Karakorum on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier and Panmagh Glacier.

Biafo, Choktoi and Nobande Sobande Glaciers

The long glacier on the left is Biaffo. Choktoi Glacier runs parallel in the middle/right of the photo. Nobande Sobande is on the far right.

Every trip of this sort starts with a mountain of permits and papers!

A mural in Skardu commemorating mountaineers who died in the winder attempt on K2 in 2021.

Skardu and the Indus River

Skardu

Skardu

Indus River near Skardu from the road to Shigar Valley.

Mountains above Askole

Mountains above the snout of the Biafo Glacier. We passed by the Biafo Glacier during the first day of the trek. Biafo Glacier is only 3 hours from Askole, the second last village in the valley.

The bridge over the Biafo River.

Approaching the Biafo Glacier. Benta Brakk (the Ogre) is visible on the horizon.

Biafo River and the snout of the Biafo Glacier

We are heading towards the Jola camp, the first camp of the K2 trek. After the Jola camp, we turned north and have not seen anyone else for two weeks.

Paju Peak spires from the trail to Jola camp.

Looking south from the trail to the Panmagh Glacier.

Mountains near Jola camp

Dumord Vallley. Panmah Glacier ahead.

In the Dumord River valley.

The peaks above the Dumord River Valley

The massive Panmagh Glacier. The glacier is 4 km wide. Skamri Peaks can be seen on the horizon. They form the border between Pakistan and China.

A relatively small side glacier connecting the north side of the Latok group to the Panmagh Glacier. The river flowing out of it was so turbulent that we had to traverse the Panmagh Glacier to bypass it.

Looking back at the small glacier and the satellite peaks of the Latok group from the Panmagh Glacier.

On the Panmagh Glacier.

Negotiating the Panmagh Glacier

Panmagh Glacier

Panmagh Glacier. Skamri Peaks are on the horizon.

Looking across the Panmagh Glacier.

Side moraine of the Panmah Glacier

Approaching our camp at the confluence of the Panmagh and Choktoi glaciers.

Interesting rock towers above the Choktoi Glacier.

Looking over the Panmagh Glacier with Skamri Peaks on the horizon. The Skamri Peaks are 45km away.

Panmagh Glacier and Dumord River Valley

Skamri Peak

Skamri Peak

Our camp on the Choktoi Glacier.

Choktoi Glacier camp.

Choktoi Glacier and our camp. The Latok and Ogre Basecamps are 12 km up the Choktoi Glacier. The Choktoi Peak dominates the view.

The confluence of the Choktoi and Panmagh Glaciers.

The confluence of the Choktoi and Panmagh Glaciers. Our camp is visible below in the centre.

Typical rock formations of the Karakoram range.

On the Choktoi Glacier heading to the Latok bc.

Latok 4 6470m

Latok 4

Latok 4

The lower section of Latok 3

The rock towers at the end of the Choktoi Glacier. The shark fin-like peak is the Biarcheldi Tower.

Latok 3 6915m

Latok 3 6915m

Latok 3 6915m

Choktoi Glacier

Peaks along the Panmagh Glacier. Looking down from the Choktoi Glacier.

Choktoi Glacier

Choktoi Glacier, the tall peak is Baintha Ahrta 6370m

Choktoi Glacier. The peak on the left is Beintha Kabata 6260m.

Beautiful light on the towers at the head of the Choktoi Glacier from the Latok/Ogre bc.

Latok 1 with its summit hiding in the clouds 7145m from Latok/Ogre bc.

The fabulous panorama of the Choktoi Glacier and Latok and Ogre peaks from Latok 1/Ogre bc.

The snowy ridge of Latok 3 6,949m

Ogre 2 and The Ogre

Ogre 2 6885m

Ogre 2 6885m

The Col between Ogre 1 and Ogre 2

Ogre 2 6885m and the Ogre 7270m

Ogre 2 and Ogre 1. The col between the peaks is at 6000m. Its base is 12 km away! The scale of the terrain here is enormous.

Latok 4

Latok 4

The Latok/Ogre bc. In the bc. there was a 4 men European team trying to climb the Ogre 1. After waiting for one month for good weather window, they wrapped up the expedition.

Latok 4 (the highest snow peak on the right) and the Choktoi Glacier

Latok 4 - just shy of 6500m in elevation.

The upper section of the Choktoi Glacier.

Choktoi Glacier and Latok bc (on the curve of the glacier on the right side).

Incredible rock formations of the Latok 4/Latok 2 area.

Choktoi Glacier and the Latok Group.

The challenging terrain of the Choktoi Glacier.

Choktoi Glacier and the Latok 4 cirque.

Choktoi Glacier

Negotiating the jumbled Choktoi Glacier.

Nearing the confluence of the Panmagh and Choktoi Glaciers.

Looking north east from the Choktoi Glacier to the peaks above the Panmagh Glacier.

The confluence of the Choktoi and Panmagh Glaciers. Looking up the Choktoi towards the Latok/Ogre bc.

Latok 4 (left) and Latok 3 (right) . The sharp pointy summit of Latok 1 is visible behind Latok 3.

Latok 4 and Latok 3

Chiring Glacier

Peaks along the Chiring Glacier

Our camp on Panmagh Glacier

Our camp on the Panmagh Glacier at the confluence with the Nobande Sobande Glacier. Skamri Peak dominates the skyline.

Skamri Peaks

Looking south from our camp at the Panmagh Glacier.

Panmagh Glacier - looking south where we came from.

Looking up the Nobande Sobande Glacier towards Snow Lake from 5000m.

Upper Nobande Sobande Glacier

Hanispur 5875m

The incredible views along the Nobande Sobande Glacier

The pointy Choktoi Peak (left)

Choktoi Peak 6150m

Looking south down the Panmagh/Nobande Sobande Glaciers from 5000m.

Rock and snow formations above the Nobande Sobande Glacier.

Skamri Peak forms the border between Pakistan and China.

Skamri Peak and Skamri Glacier.

Upper reach of the Drenmang Glacier which connects to the Nobande Sobande Glacier.

Peaks along the Drenmang Glacier forming the border between Pakistan and China.

Upper reach of the Drenmang Glacier

6000m peaks above the Drenmang Glacier

Skamri

Skamri

On the Panamagh Glacier

The confluence of the Chiring and Panamagh Glaciers.

Panamagh Glacier

Panmagh Glacier

Panmagh Glacier

Our camp called “no wood camp” on the side of the Panamagh Glacier

No Wood camp

No Wood camp

Skamri from the Sandy Camp

Moody light on the Latok peaks and Choktoi Glacier.

Crossing the Choktoi Glacier

Taking a break from the rain in the herders hut for some warm tea and cheer.

After the rains, even small streams that we crossed without any problems on the way in became raging rivers.

Looking back at the Panmagh Glacier.

Small streams turning into raging rivers!

Back In Shigar Valley

Village of Tissar, the home of my crew

Our team: 7 porters, the guide and two horsemen from Askole. The famous “Danger Man” is third from the right! Equally famous Mansoor is the first from the left.

Pakistan Haramosh La 5,150m

Haramosh La is one of the more challenging passes to cross in the Karakoram. It is situated in the Lesser Karakoram Range but there is NOTHING lesser about it. The altitude is gained very rapidly (from 2000m to 5200m in 3 days), the ascent is dotted with crevasses and the descent is a 1500m drop on day 1 and another 1500m on day 2. The descent slope is a 50 degree mass of loose rocks that just wait to be dislodged and catapult down to the valley. One has to descent the slope diagonally to avoid dropping rocks on anyone in the party. We had a very competent local guide Hussain from Arando. He was incredibly fast, strong and knew the best way up the Haramosh Glacier and down to the Kutwal Valley. The upper section is quite steep but nothing overly serious. The loose terrain was the biggest challenge with a large group of porters. If the upper section is iced up or snow covered, a fixed rope would be required. We were fortunate to have dry conditions.

The temperature went from -10C on top of the pass to +45C at 2200m in the narrow valley. The ever changing and unpredictable weather adds to the challenge as the pass can only be crossed in clear weather. Crossing it is a snowstorm or rain would be quite dangerous on the descent. It is not a popular trek and the pass is crossed very rarely (once or twice per year, in a good year). I had it on my radar since 2013 and I finally made it. It is an incredible place with absolutely stunning scenery. Not easy to get to but definitely worth the effort.

Thanks to Adventure Karakoram Pakistan and Ghulam from Mountain Travels Pakistan for their assistance, hospitality and great service!

The overview of the Lesser Karakorum. Rakaposhi, Haramosh and Diran are situated in that range. All are over 7000m high.

Map of the Haramosh Glacier and Haramosh La (lower left).

Starting point of the trek is Arando, a 6 hr drive from Skardu.

Map of Chogolugma Glacier, Haramosh Glacier and Haramosh La.

The long glacier on the left is Chogolugma. The Glacier on the right is Hispar. Haramosh Glacier is on the left side flowing into the Chogolugma Glacier in the middle left of the photo.

The Indus River and Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

The confluence of Shigar and Basha Rivers. We are going into the valley ahead. The road to Askole turns right.

Basha River Valley. The high mountain on the right is Bargincho 5790m.

Driving to Arando

Camp 1 in Arando

Negotiating with porters in Arando

Arando, bridge over Basha River

Arando

Arando, Basha River

Arando is very close to the terminal moraine of the Chomolugma Glacier and the source of the Basha River.

Arando village in the distance

The terminal moraine of the Chomolugma Glacier

We climbed quite high on day 2. Day 3 and 4 we stayed put to wait out the rain.

The road to Arando and Basha River

Arando village and the terminus of the Chgolugma Glacier.

Our first camp on the Chogolugma Glacier. We stayed here for two nights to wait out the rain, Sine it is a cow pasture we had hundreds of flies in our tents.

Chomolugma Glacier

Day 5 was long but flat march along the Chomolugma Glacier.

A beautiful flower filled side moraine of the Chogolugma Glacier. Spantik is directly ahead.

Second East Haramosh Glacier and Paraber Peak 6,315m.

Chomolugma Glacier with Malubitung Peak 7453m on the horizon.

Chomolugma Glacier

On the Chomolugma Glacier

Chomolugma Glacier

Malubiting 7453m

Upper Chomolugma Glacier

Malubiting 7453m

Haramosh 2 with its summit in the cloud.

Spantik is right in front. You can see the ascent ridge and the entire route of the climb.

Chomolugma Glacier

On Haramosh Glacier

On Haramosh Glacier.

Haramosh Glacier. We had to bypass the heavily crevassed frontal section of the Haramosh Glacier.

Haramosh Glacier

The confluence of the Haramosh and Chomolugma Glaciers.

Sgari Glacier and Bolocho 1 (high peak on the left 5850m).

Bolocho 1

The heavily crevassed Haramosh Glacier.

Haramosh Glacier

Our incredible camp on the Haramosh Glacier. This is the bc for the Pass.

Pointing at the pass 12 km away and another 1000m up along the upper reaches of the Haramosh Glacier.

Early morning on the upper Haramosh Glacier

Haramosh 2 6666m and Mani Peak 6685m with he Haramosh La 5150m ahead.

The sunrise on the Haramosh Glacier

Sunrise on Haramosh 1 7406m.

Laila Peak icefall with Laila Peak 6986m above.

Haramosh 2 6666m.

Haramosh 2

Mani Pk and Haramosh La. See the porters for scale.

Taking a break before roping up on the Haramosh Glacier.

Laila 1 Peak 6985m

Unnamed Peak along the upper Haramosh Glacier.

Laila 1 Peak 6985m and behind, Laila 2 6765m

Sun halo on Haramosh 2

Mani Pk and the icefall that we had to cross to get to Haramosh La

Looking down the Haramosh Glacier. Laila Pk on the left and Haramosh 2 on the right.

Mountains of the Hispar Glacier area above the Chgolugma Glacier

Haramosh 2 from Haramosh La

Haramosh La. Haramosh 1 is on the right.

Add another 100m

Mountains above Haramosh La

Mani Pk and Haramosh La

Haramosh La, Mni Pk and Haramosh Pk.

Mani Pk 6685m and Haramosh La 5200m

Mani Pk 6685m, Haramosh La and the steep descent slope

Haramosh 1 Pk 7,406 and the descent slope from Haramosh La.

My guide Essan and my guide’s guide Hassan from Arando.

Mani Glacier and the Kutwal Valley. Kutwal Lake (our destination for the day) is 1500m below and 8 km away.

Laila 2 and Rakaposhi on the horizon.

In the distance on the right is Rakaposhi 7788m

Bilchar Dobani 6134m

Rakaposhi on the right in the distance

Laila 3 6375m from Haramosh La

The descent slope. Laila 3 and Laila 2 tower over our route.

The porters had to be extra careful with the loads.

The descent is quite steep at the top

The grade of the descent slope

Haramosh La 5150m and Haramosh Mountain 7409m ( on the right).

Hassan the guide from Arando is looking up to check on the the descending porters.

Coming down Haramosh La. Mani Glacier is below.

Hassan has balls of steel - no rope or ice axe, in plastic shoes with steep drop-offs on both sides. I was watching this and slowly realizing that I was next to follow him.

Haramosh 1 Mountain 7409m half way down from the pass.

Lower section of the descent slope. We descended from the top of the pass diagonally to avoid rockfall. The slope was very loose and we sent rocks flying many times. Crossing the snow gullies in plastic shoes was quite challenging for the porters but no rope was used at any point.

Mani Pk and Haramosh from the descent of the Haramosh La

Mani Pk and the Haramosh La from the bottom of our descend route.

Haramosh 1 Mountain and the head of the Kutwal Valley.

Haramosh La 5150m and our descent route.

Haramosh 1 Mt 7409m

Haramosh La

Beautiful sunset on the Haramosh La from our camp at the Kutwal Lake.

The camp at the Kutwal Lake with Haramosh 1 towering above.

The beautiful but small Kutwal Lake and Haramosh 1.

Our Haramosh La team with Malubiting 7453m behind.

The incredible scenery of the Kutwal Valley. Malubiting West 7458m (centre), Malubiting Centre and East 6970m (right). The glacier flowing from Malubiting is Baskal Glacier. What an incredible place!

Pastures of the upper Kutwal Valley

Haramosh 1 and the terminal moraine of the Mani Glacier.

The crazy road to the KKH!

Looking up-valley with Miar 2and 3 dominating the skyline.

Miar 2 6,790m and 3 Mt 6,635m and the crazy road to Sassi and the KKH.

Sasso and the KKH can be seen below. KKH follows the Indus River Valley

Sasso and the KKH.

Pakistan - Skardu, Mansoor Rock, Pindi, Lahore, KKH and Kagan Valley

It is very strange that a country with such poor reputation as a tourist destination is one of the friendliest places on this planet. Its people are very welcoming, genuinely interested in visitors and super friendly. Its landscapes are some of the most amazing on earth. And yet, there are very very few tourists. This has not changed since 2005, the last time I visited. Pakistan does not feel like a place made for tourists. It is real, raw and exciting. The experience of visiting Pakistan is intense. There is no other place like it.

Taking a tea break in Rawalpindi bazar.

The Royal bazar in Rawalpindi

The animal market at the Rawalpindi bazar.

A fortune teller at the Rawalpindi bazar.

Kagan Valley - the westernmost part of the Himalayan range.

Kagan Valley, the road to Babusar Pass

A food stall in the Kagan Valley

The beautiful Kagan Valley

Naran in Kagan Valley

Kagan Valley

Kagan Valley

Kagan Valley

Public transport

Karakoram Highway near Chilas

Karakoram Highway

The Jaglot - Skardu section of the Karakoram Highway

Jaglot - Skardu road

In Chilas on the Karakoram Highway

Along the Karakoram Highway

Nanga Parbat massif from the Karakoram Highway

The Indus Valley near Skardu from the Karakoram Highway

Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat

Indus Valley near Skardu

Indus near Skardu

Skardu

Confluence of Shigar River and Indus near Skardu

Skardu

Skardu

Karpocho Fort in Skardu

Kachura Fort in Skardu

Main mosque in Skardu

Skardu

Skardu and the Indus Valley

Skardu from the hike to Masur Rock

Skardu from the hike to Masur Rock

Skardu from the hike to Masur Rock

Mansur Rock

Mansur Rock

Indus River and the Karakoram Mountains from Mansur Rock

Skardu and the Indus from Mansur Rock

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley. The confluence of Braldu and Shigar Rivers

Shigar Valley

Shigar Valley

Old Fort Lahore

Badshahi Mosque in Lahore

Lahore

Lahore

Lahore

Old Fort Lahore

Streets of Old Lahore

Old Lahore

Food capital of Pakistan - in Old Lahore

One of the city gates in Old Lahore

Street tea house in Old Lahore

A tea shop on Old Lahore

Street food in Old Lahore

Old Lahore Bazar

City Gate in Old Lahore